We take a closer look at the emerging trends of the year from Geneva's annual watch fair.
It’s high time that the watchmaking industry went back to doing what it does best: finding creative and modern solutions to age-old technical conundrums. The industry has been relatively quiet in recent years, but it was clearly the calm before the storm. At the 2019 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, we were inundated with a range of haute horlogerie complications as well as innovative advances. Case in point: Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle Twin Beat that offers 65 days of power reserve thanks to an innovative dual frequency system, and a magnum opus by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel.
Left: Bovet (Top), Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Traditional Gyrotourbillion Westminster Perpétuel (Bottom);
Middle: Christophe Claret Angelico;
Right: Ressence Type 2 e-Crown (Top), Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat (Bottom)
Blue is the new neutral of the horological world: just take a gander at this year’s launches. The thing with blue is that it’s not terribly trendy, but it can successfully straddle that thin line between classic and modern. It’s versatile as well, subdued enough for a work watch, snazzy enough for a dress one, and playful enough for the weekend. What more can we want?
Left: Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry (Top), IWC Schaffhausen Le Petit Prince (Bottom);
Middle: De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu;
Right: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (Top), Girard-Perregaux Laureato (Bottom)
The increased demand for individualism has resulted in the watchmaking industry’s response to this trend: bronze. It develops a natural patina over time, making for a unique finish that can’t be recreated. Collectors are going bonkers for bronze, as evinced by the influx of such watches on the market.
Left: Montblanc 1858 in Bronze with Green dial
Right: Urwerk UR-105 Maverick
Apart from the tourbillon, the moonphase is probably the only other function that you can’t go wrong with, aesthetically speaking. Sure, it’s pretty cool that your watch can track the waning and waxing of the moon, but it’s more than just its technical aspect that has captured our imagination. A moonphase is poetic and whimsical, and each watchmaker has its own unique take on the complication.
Left: Hermès L'Heure de la Lune
Right: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric QP Rétrograde
An increasing number of brands are rejecting labels, and creating unisex timepieces in sizes that are wearable by both genders. Overtly masculine or feminine codes are being rejected for a more gender-neutral aesthetic, as seen on the 42mm timepieces within Audemars Piguet’s newest Code 11.59 collection.
Left: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59
Right: Hèrmes Arceau 78