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From Factory to Fashion

Prada invites four industrial insider to reinterpret its classic nylon, Pocone.

Words By
Konstantin Grcic

Konstantin Grcic

In Konstantin Grcic’s eyes, functionality is defined in human terms as combining formal strictness with intellectual acuity and humour. He’s known for his logical designs, motivated by the integrity of materials and an appropriateness of production methods, all whilst integrating a sense of originality. As he said, “Function is the intelligence of a product. Intelligence produces beauty.”

 

This is embodied in his piece as part of Prada Invites, where practicality meets style. This design is a reinterpretation of the multi-pocketed vests traditionally worn by fishermen, a traditionally versatile and lightweight garment. His initial inspiration was drawn from the fishing vest Joseph Beuys always wore—made for him specially by his wife—but in a more abstract manner. Beuys, an artiste extraordinaire, lived and taught in a West German town not far from Wuppertal, where Grcic grew up in the ‘70s. “His particular uniform became an iconic look for the artist’s anti-establishment attitude, which really attracted me as a teenager—like punk rock,” Grcic further elaborated. He coupled this inspiration with an homage to Prada’s original 1984 nylon backpack, resulting in the “Apron and Hood”—a bizarre side-slung apron piece with an abundance of pockets, which can double as a frontal vest attached to the body by a hood. The multifaceted piece also has a detachable vest to go with the apron: perfect for those who wants to stand out, discreetly.

 

Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec

Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec

Rather than assuming a signature look or identity, Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec’s designs have as their raison d’êtrel, a real flexibility at the hands of the consumer. Their philosophy? Letting the user define what an object is and how to use it. The inspiration for the portfolio case is linked to Erwan’s memory of carrying a portfolio as a student. And Ronan has always “liked the profiles of people—architects, painters and students—walking around with art folders.” There’s always a sense of elegance and importance when people rush around a bustling city, portfolio in hand.

 

The Bouroullec brothers have successfully recreated this experience for any working man—the elevated experience of carrying around a reimagined work bag. The briefcase is a classic, but the portfolio adds a modern and artistic twist to something we’re used to. The clear-cut shape, sharp edges and fixed geometry against a moving and indistinct figure wonderfully complements each other—the perfect balance of independent features and interconnectedness; yin and yang. The project takes that solid contour and “instills it in a shoulder bag, with its inside gusset, low fastening, elastic bands and eyelet, and use of a single colour, which produces a subtle graphical playfulness,” Ronan explained. The refined case comes in multiple sizes with a range of accented pops of colour on the elastic bands. It’s simplicity and multiple versions allow the user to style it in any manner.

Rem Koolhaas

Rem Koolhaas

Prada brought the backpack back in 1984, and Rem Koolhaas is taking it one step further—he’s decided on the frontpack. Known for shaking up established conventions, Koolhaas is one who isn’t afraid to explore controversial ideas. His writings have forced architects to shift their attitude of conforming to rigid architectural norms to more flexible habits. Our society and cultural landscapes are constantly changing, and the way we think has to emulate this idea of transformation. Provocative, mordant and witheringly witty, his concepts have changed the way we view cities, just as much as his architecture has compelled us to reevaluate what buildings can be and how they can embody radical ideas.

 

To him, the typical backpack is awkward and ineffective, with all entry points being “mismatched and underdimensioned”. Alluding to these inconveniences and slowness, he has come up with a solution. Along with his firm OMA, Koolhaas has created a provocatively peculiar yet perfectly practical frontpack. The project has reinterpreted the functionality of the backpack as one that can now be suited to the contemporary urban citizen. The frontal position makes it far more accessible for travelers. What’s more? It provides a more “intimate sense of ownership—a better control of movement.” Individualism is celebrated, not shunned as users can wear the frontpack however they please, including reversing it and using it as a backpack instead. Because the essence of Prada is essentially all about breaking boundaries.

Herzog & de Meuron

Herzog & de Meuron

The vestige of words on the T-shirt are present not just to please the eyes; they also hold a strong political message. Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron have created an inspired piece of fashion that speaks in a different vernacular: one that uses words to show its own incompetence. The irony is uncanny. Considering that we’re living in such a politically charged environment, the concept of fake news is relevant now more than ever. Here, we have fake news turned fashion.

 

Titled “Language Restraint”, this three-piece collection also includes a nylon shirt printed with blocks of blurred texts, and a jacket dotted with buttons embellished with letter fragments. They stay true to their architectural styles of abundant printing and ornamental façades, and the shirt certainly reflects that with the exorbitant use of black text against a white background. Herzog said that the piece depicts “the increasing disappearance of text as a reliable medium of communication.”  Whilst the printed words of the pieces exude a veneer of chicness, it also represents its ability to hide the truth—truths that are now trivialised. As Herzog and de Meuron put it: “Truths, half-truths, and untruths rub shoulders as equals in our so-called information society.” We agree. Apart from hard scientific facts, everything else comes down to subjectivity and interpretation, just like fashion itself.  

From left: Vest by Konstantin Grcic; Frontpack by Rem Koolhaas; Portfolio by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec and Jacket, shirt & t-shirt by Herzog & de Meuron. 

For its Fall/Winter ’18 runway show, Prada took its show-goers to its new warehouse next to its Fondazione. The logistic hub was piled by plywood, foil and all things industrial. And then models strutted down the runway in workers’ uniforms, featuring four unique designs by individuals and groups whose works are typically found outside the realm of fashion. The “Prada Invites” is a collaboration which showcases the works of Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, Herzog and de Meuron, and Rem Koolhaas, whom each worked on creating a single item using the black nylon - a Prada classic.

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