Featuring patina leather boots and vintage clothing, 28-year-old model Logan Ahl moves far away from three-piece suits and the corporate life. Known as @and_death, this Japan-based Instagrammer pulls off the rugged look quite comfortably.
ESQUIRE: What's the concept behind your signature look?
LOGAN AHL: There are a lot of concepts going on usually, depending on what I want to wear...but I try not to be too literal. A lot of my clothing is period specific reproductions and vintage, and not making it look that way is crucial for me. That often requires a blend of modern influence, or mixing period pieces that wouldn't have actually co-existed together. Wearing a vintage Kendo gi with my M-43 army pants, as an example, or Thai fisherman pants with a 1920s -1930s style shop coat. Beyond that, it is about colour tonality, texture, and balancing (or unbalancing) those ideas into a "style" that feels natural to me.
ESQ: How would you classify your look?
LA: Basically, I just try and look like a vagabond or something - and I've been told my style is like "a vintage Star Wars hybrid" or a "Final Fantasy" character - and really, that's alright by me. But I think it naturally developed this way due to my interest in vintage and the value I place on garment fabric, volume and shape.
ESQ: Where do you source your clothing?
LA: Well, now you know I like vintage clothing - but mostly its WWI - WWII era militaria I take the most interest in, or old Navajo silver. I find a lot of stuff on eBay, or flea markets, and of course vintage stores. I often buy from brands like The Real McCoys (he also works there), Kapital, Engineered Garments, RRL and more recently Nigel Cabourn, now that I have access to his work here in Tokyo.
ESQ: What are your top 5 essential clothing staples?
LA: Top 5 would be: Korean War era M-43 HBT US army pants, Phigvel brown Horsehide Engineer boot, RRL Indigo pocket T-shirt, vintage Pecos boots and HBT Military cap probably see the most wear of anything I own.