We Go 'Behind The Seams' With Wardrobe Tailoring House
The renowned Malaysian tailoring house shows us what goes into the construction of a bespoke suit.
BY sarah chong | Dec 23, 2016 | Fashion
The process of making a suit is much more than the selection of materials and the taking of exact measurements—especially when it comes to a bespoke one. A bespoke suit follows and lives with you. As your body changes, so does your suit. Handmade with precision, the pattern making and the cutting can only be executed by experienced tailors.
Wardrobe’s rich history in the tailoring industry has allowed them to cover orders from other tailoring industries as well as renowned fashion designers in Malaysia. With over 30 years of experience, Wardrobe knows that suit construction is not merely a creative process, but also a highly technical one. Here, we take a look at some of the key steps that go into the making of a bespoke masterpiece.
1 | A tailor traces and cuts out the garment frame according to the design and the measurements. He then traces them once again onto the fabric with a chalk wheel. These markings and cuttings are extremely important in ensuring the measurements translate onto the fabric well.
2 | The tailor places markings on the fabric by baste stitching them by hand. Basting allows the fabric to create consistency and form, and this is the moment when a piece of fabric starts to transform into a suit.
3 | This precision pressure control machine heats the collar and the cuffs to ensure shirts have a smooth surface and to prevent them from fraying after extended wear.
4 | Here, a tailor works on the garment by hand, paying particular attention to the details. The raw buttonhole is finished with a very close-spaced hand-stitch. Finally, the buttons are sewn on.
5 | The pressing room includes (from left to right) the body press machine, the double shoulder press machine and the collar press machine. With pressing, the fabric softens and becomes more comfortable when worn.
6 | After hours of stitching and construction, final adjustments are made when the client tries on the suit to ensure it fits perfectly.
For more information on Wardrobe, visit their website.
First published in Esquire Malaysia's December 2016 issue.