Paris Fashion Week: Day 2 Review
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week brought us around the world with the many different types of print.
Kim Jones is a global wanderer. He has previously taken us on journeys to the east and afar. And this time, he has decided to take a wild ride to Africa. Although Africa is a recurring theme in Jones’ work, the collection is completely new and a stunning one which cannot be faulted. Jones’ idea of Africa is evoked through rich, intricate textile treatments, exotic skins and a menagerie of animal prints – from giraffes head dropping to big cats prowling over silk shirts and jackets. The palette is dominated by Savannah-blended shades. Even though Africa is home to the collection, according to Jones (an English native), there’s always something a little London hidden somewhere, this time it is the influence of Punk. Mohair jumpers are paired with edgy trousers with zips and straps and stomping laced brogues with crepe soles. The monogram mix woven technique seen on coats and bags are some of the finest work we’ve seen from Jones. And the collection is easily one of the best from this season so far.
If Issey Miyake wants to showcase the styles of Varanasi of India in Paris, the scotching sun today certainly aided his effort. But the collection is a vast contrast to the searing temperature in the show venue. Soundtracked by psych rock and acid folk band, Kikagaku Moyo, the opening looks with soft-to-the-touch wrinkle fabrics in shades of white are a breath of fresh air. The styles are minimal and the silhouettes are relaxed and the models are cool. As the band picks up the pace, the looks gradually gains color, transitioning to multicolored patterns inspired by the Holi festival. And then, there are abstract watercolor patterns, stamp plaids, marble patterns all over the runway. From amorphous parkas, lightweight jackets to generously-cut tops, the Issey Miyake Men are as effortless as they’re cool.
Colors are muted, textures are gentle and the mood is romantic at Kolor. It’s a delicately masculine collection, where models are sent down runway in boxy shirt underlay with chiffon, while a tailored jacket is paired with fuchsia pink shorts. What we like from the collection are the prints. The Navajo prints pack a punch to give the otherwise muted collection a surprise zing but without the fear of blatant hyper-visibility. And the lived-in looks elevate the character of that Kolor man we all want to be.