Salvatore Ferragamo Has Punk
The first combined men's and women's show marks the start of a bolder (and grittier) new chapter for the Italian luxury house.
BY NORMAN TAN | Feb 26, 2018 | Fashion
Leading up to the Salvatore Ferragamo combined autumn/winter 2018 show—the very first for the storied Florentine house—everyone was curious as to how it was going to take shape: two designers showing in one unified show? Will Paul Andrew’s debut collection for women’s be consistent with what Guillaume Meilland has in store for men’s? Will the male and female models walk together? Or will the show be sectioned off into two separate parts?
Well, as it turns out, not only do Andrew and Meilland work for the same house, but they also design from the same table.
From left: Guillaume Meilland and Paul Andrew
“We worked together from the very beginning: from the colour palette to the silhouette to the fittings. It was a fusion,” revealed Meilland backstage after the show. “We liked the idea of showing off and playing with the house codes. The new Ferragamo man is respectful of the past but is still in sync with the time. Ease and confidence—that’s the character and feeling we wanted to portray.”
(Note the use of the pronoun “we” as opposed to “I”. This clearly is a historic new chapter for Ferragamo.)
What ensued on the runway—a maze-like construction of towering colour-blocked walls inside Palazzo Mezzanotte in Piazza Degli Affari—was an elevated new interpretation of the Ferragamo ethos walked out by both male and female models. Two collections, one catwalk, same vision. Sophisticated? Definitely. The colour palette was rich in merlot reds, parakeet greens, mustard yellows and deep Vatican blues. Silhouette? Long and languid. Emphasised through the soft hand and bounce of silk twill shirting, a cotton-bonded trench coat, and the use of double-wool cashmere on an elongated donkey coat with patch leather shoulders. Spirit? Elegant yet edgy. Gone were the classically handsome and conservative models of yesteryear and, in their place, a bold cast (some sporting mullets) with added spunk. Grittier. Cooler.
When it came to standout menswear exits, it was the layered ensembles, loaded with attitude, that caught our eye: That buttoned-up blush nude shirt under a zip-up blouson tucked into camel trousers and topped up with a delicious chocolate leather blazer; that waffle-weave and striped sweater in tangerine, mustard and slate, truncated to sit above the buckle of a leather belt holding up slate grey trousers; and that baby blue buttoned-up shirt worn over a maroon turtle neck and tucked into nappa calfskin leather trousers and finished with a peak-lapel long coat fitted with a peek-a-boo quilted gilet cast in blood red. Finally, the must-have accessory? The boots. All finished with the iconic Doppio Gancini brass hardware on the heel. Want.
Source: Esquire Singapore