Fashion notes by Vivian Yap; All images courtesy of Dior.
Ten years on at Dior Homme, Kris van Assche explores process and proportion in the Summer 2018 collection, a study of the Dior Homme suit. Constructing and desconstructing, he produces "controlled gestures of volume". A slim blazer in black Ottoman wool lends itself to variations on a theme: "long summer coat, backless or sleeveless gilet, and a new bias-cut tailcoat. The base of the jacket is bisected into polos and shirting or tacked to wide pants; sleeves tie at the waist as an urban trompe l’oeil." It's "the brink of adulthood", completely appropriate for our kidult times when we'd lioke to think we're still freshmen.
So, "varsity elements are fused with the tenets of fine suiting – bomber sleeve jackets, track tops with campus insignia, and striped argyle knits "strung with garlands of naïve gothic jewellery". Basting stitches, selvedge and taped edges "elevate hooded outerwear and grained nappa leathergoods". Reference is once more made to art: Francois Bard's hooded figures, portraits, and dark orchids inject shots of cyan and yellow to a palette of vermillion, burgundy, camel and sky blue. The ensemble is meant to convey "freedom of innocence... in a midsummer mood that marks the penultimate fusion of sport and suit".