Kris van Assche lets in some light for the ready-to-wear Dior Homme collection for Spring 2018. From the "dark rave sensibility" of last year's HarDior emerges "a sophisticated optimism". The palette is still in the monochrome demanded by fashion's louche aesthetic, but with uplifting accents of colour and texture. It's all in the name of 'athletic', which contrasts well with Dior Homme's sharp tailoring. Think slim silhoutte jackets and trousers with repurposed sports wear that make for a "relaxed urban edge". How, exactly? It's in graphic detail: "The trope of the tracksuit stripe is elevated in an array of artisanal stitching techniques" – and how you wear it: "Pinstripe nylon and wool fabrics are overlocked, zig-zagged, and topstitched..." A "sense of punk romance" permeates. Scribbled notes are from Monsieur Dior’s archive, while the white rose patch of Summer 2016 re-emerges as embroidery. There are outsider slogans and knitwear. (Hello, Ryan Gosling.) HarDior returns in the jacquard knitwear, ribbed collar details, and bonded logo. Wear with moulded-sole 90’s-inspired trainers or printed patent derbies.