Dior Homme's Flourish of Tailored Urban Nostalgia
Dior Homme Winter 18 Collection
Youth, freedom, abandon. Age, wisdom, looming from the outside in. Kris Van Assche's Dior Homme Winter 2018-2019 embraces duality, questions form. His deconstruction of the Dior Homme suit references 90s urban culture, its nostalgia given shape and coherence by the finesse of the atelier.
Variations on the bar jacket via pattern-making is also a display of ‘savoir-faire’. There is black grain-de-poudre wool for sculpted suit jackets; slotted lapels, patch pockets, double-breasted officer’s buttons. Throughout the collection is a graphic of a rave totem, "a singular heraldic device" or an all-over print. In forest green, crimson and safety yellow, the trompe l’oeil layering of classic knit polo shirts, tank tops, and turtleneck sweaters classically addresses fashion's cult of youth "in ironic compositions of a teenage wardrobe", of course juxtaposed with formality: structured trench and overcoat shapes in bonded cashmere. What else: high-pleated trousers in suiting wools or washed denim worn beneath cropped nylon parkas, duffel coats, rugged shearlings and technical windcheaters.
Briefly: A silhouette cast from the "street vs. sartorial axis, reflecting the eternal call-and-repeat of youth and manhood."
Tailored products for everybody. Single breasted, double breasted, notch lapels, vested...
Sweaters are the easiest thing to be thrown on during winter. Selection of pants decides the formality of the outfit.
Wearing a bold colour or patterned shirt as a base adds drama to the entire look. Red elevates the look without overpowering the entire ensemble
It takes confidence to wear yellow. But it's energetic and sporty; not flashy. Tip: when matching colours, temper the louder colour with earthy tones.
This unique print seems to be one of the many elements that ties together the collection. Van Assche seems to be weaving classic with grunge aesthetic as a theme. In the first picture, there is a fresh layering of a short light-weight jacket over a suit jacket.
Mutual Color Pallette
Putting the same tone one on another can work if you are doing it the right way.
Overcoats = elegant
Puffer jacket + Leather moto + Light weight jacket = Chic