10 Brands That'll Make You Want to Wear Modern Suits Every Day
Welcome to the new age of tailoring.
BY Jian Deleon | Jul 18, 2017 | Fashion
In many workplaces, "Casual Friday" is more like "casual everyday," but that doesn't mean the suit no longer has a place in the modern wardrobe. If anything, now it's about wearing it separately: the trousers one day with a leather jacket, the jacket another day with a pair of cuffed jeans. That said, there's never an inappropriate time to wear a full suit to the office, or even to happy hour. But there are a lot more options, like whether you should pair it with boots or sneakers instead of run-of-the-mill wingtips.
Maybe it's because men are dressing more adventurously, or maybe it's because the suit now has to compete with everything else in your wardrobe, but old-hat labels and new designers alike have dedicated themselves to giving tailored clothing a brand new look. No, we're not talking triple-breasted jackets or super-shiny pants, but in their own unique ways, these 10 designers are making a case for why the suit is here to stay.
1 | EIDOS NAPOLI
Designer: Antonio Ciongoli
Expect to spend: ~USD1,600
What you should know: There have been many suit collections aimed at younger men, but few that refrain from speaking to them like they're children. Eidos Napoli is a subset of storied Italian clothier Isaia, and the clothes are designed for an audience that's not just youthful, but sartorially savvy. It's the perfect balance of forward-thinking fabrics and break-'em-apart suits and trousers that can hold their own by themselves, but look absolutely killer together—sort of like the robotic dinosaurs that comprise the Megazord, but for your wardrobe.
2 | OUR LEGACY
Designers: Christopher Nying and Jockum Hallin
Expect to spend: ~USD750
What you should know: Our Legacy is only a decade old, but its, erm... legacy is already well-established. Part of the appeal is the brand's mastery of menswear basics, mixing Scandinavian minimalism with a worldly, street appeal. Hence, breezy three-button suit jackets are paired with coordinating relaxed trousers with elastic waistbands and fuller legs, as well as matching topcoats. Not that you'd ever wear them all together, but it's nice knowing that should you want to go off the deep end, the option's there. While these suits won't pass in white-shoe firms, they'll definitely stand out in a start-up culture. It's the closest thing to a hoodie in suit form: all the casual attitude without the lazy look.
3 | BOGLIOLI
Designer: Formerly Jay Vosoghi, now Davide Morello
Expect to spend: ~USD1,500
What you should know: The unstructured Italian suiting thing is here to stay, and Boglioli is among the brands leading the charge. Sure, the family who started the label may have moved onto other sartorial pastures (and the sons carrying the torch are also on this list), but under outgoing designer Jay Vosoghi, the autumn offerings take the best elements of the '60s and infuse them with a modern feel.
Imagine Mad Men if it had been directed by Marcello Mastroianni, with awesome brown suits that don't look boring, and great plaid double-breasted jackets and tan corduroys that somehow break free of their fuddy-duddy college professor connotations. Vosoghi's successor, Davide Morello (the brand's first official creative director), was just named last month, and though we'll have to wait until Fall 2016 to see where he takes the brand, we've got high hopes.
4 | ENGINEERED GARMENTS
Designer: Daiki Suzuki
Expect to spend: ~$1,000
What you should know: Cult menswear brand Engineered Garments is known for its traditional workwear with nods to directional Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo, and its approach to suiting is equally unorthodox. Getting an EG suit is almost like a hunt: You get the pants or jacket first, then search for the coordinating piece within the collection. Considering the brand uses plenty of beautiful fabrics like dark wide-wale corduroys and blocked herringbones to make everything from fatigue pants to faux fur-lined coats to shawls (yes, shawls), it can actually be a bit of a process. But the kicker is that EG's sport coats and pants are as easy to wear as its rugged outerwear. Double pleats and cuffs add a welcome smartness to the B1P pant, while peak lapels and patch pockets make the Bedford jacket a menswear paradox of sorts. The hunt is on.
5 | BARENA
Designer: Massimo Pigozzo
Expect to spend: ~USD1,000
What you should know: Barena's creative director of menswear, Massimo Pigozzo, is more of a mad scientist than a clothing designer. An absolute stickler for fabric quality, he's a polymath who manages multiple aspects of the process, resulting in experimental materials like a distorted flannel check made by weaving nylon into boiled wool. Sounds complicated (because it is), but looks very simple and elegant—especially when rendered into a soft-shouldered sport coat.
6 | ACNE STUDIOS
Designer: Jonny Johansson
Expect to spend: ~USD900
What you should know: Acne Studios started as a denim brand, but creative director Jonny Johansson has transformed it into a Stockholm-based fashion powerhouse. Armed with a great sense of what's happening in the world of street style (i.e. how real people wear their clothes), Acne excels at providing high-quality fabrics in relaxed and slim cuts—but it's also absolutely unafraid to put staid suit jackets and trousers in a new context. No, sport coats and shorts with leggings underneath isn't exactly a look most men can pull off, but it does catch your attention. On the more pragmatic end, Acne makes excellent travel suits, utilizing technical fabrics that you can easily fold into a carryon and unpack without worrying about wrinkles. These are the kind of louche, casual suits meant to be worn without a tie.
7 | SUITSUPPLY
Founder: Fokke de Jong
Expect to spend: ~USD500
What you should know: When your company name quite literally establishes that you're a supplier of suits, it behooves you to have as many options as possible. And boy does Suitsupply deliver. Sure, it's the go-to for many men's "first suit," but dig a little deeper and you'll discover Suitsupply offers plenty of options for guys who want to spice up their advanced suit game. From bold plaids to pinstripes, windowpane checks to slubby fabrics so rugged they almost look like denim, it's the ideal place to find a statement-making suit without spending a grand. The best part? Many of the materials are sourced from the same high-end Italian mills favored by (far more expensive) designer labels.
8 | ABASI ROSBOROUGH
Designers: Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough
Expect to spend: ~USD1,800
What you should know: Imagine what the suit of the future looks like. Now take a look at Abasi Rosborough and find out whether you were on-the-nose or way off-base. True, the manufacturing processes by which we make clothes haven't advanced much, but the design sensibilities of former Engineered Garments design assistant Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough, who cut his teeth at Ralph Lauren, Simon Spurr, and Bespoken, are clearly ahead of their time. Inspired by ergonomics and things that are built to last, Abasi Rosborough's standout ARC Jacket and ARC Trousers are made to move, but not in the cheesy "athleisure" way. The brand opts for 100% cotton and wool instead of blends, and smartly implements articulation in the waist, knees, elbows, and other key movement areas. Oh right, and the jackets are fully canvassed, which shows how serious Abasi Rosborough is about suiting.
9 | THE GIGI
Designers: Pierluigi and Mario Boglioli
Expect to spend: ~USD1,200
What you should know: What happens when the family business is no longer the family's? When you're Pierluigi and Mario Boglioli, you start your own outfit—literally. The Gigi prides itself on bold patterns and beautiful materials, while carrying on the Boglioli family tradition of elegantly unstructured tailored clothing. Wool gingham and textured navy suits have never looked cooler, and with the whole "simple sneakers and suits" thing having a moment, The Gigi's offerings are the ideal counterpart to a well-worn pair of Common Projects Achilles.
10 | AMI
Designer: Alexandre Mattiussi
Expect to spend: ~USD900
What you should know: AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi has made a fashion career out of turning that stylish French je ne sais quoi into eminently wearable (and reasonably priced) luxury clothing. His current offerings include attractive double-breasted suits that look great dressed-up—but even better unbuttoned and styled in a way that makes it seem like you just threw the jacket on. Cut slim and slightly cropped, your winter boots just met their favorite trousers, too.
Source: Esquire US