The key to a perfectly pourable French soft-scramble is to stir—a lot. "If you let them sit, they'll just coagulate and be one mass of eggs," says Nick Korbee, chef at New York's Egg Shop. Korbee's earliest run-in with scrambled eggs was his father's version, which involved a Pyrex measuring cup, a microwave, and freshly toasted slices of Wonder Bread. He's upgraded since, and his soft scramble recipe, made with butter and salt in a make-shift double boiler, is currently his favorite scramble an egg.
It's easy to garnish, too. For flair, Korbee adds caviar or roasted maitake mushrooms. For heat, he suggests a Louisiana-style hot sauce like Frank's or Tabasco. (Korbee also makes his own sauce at Egg Shop, which he calls "That's Hot!") And for a simple scramble, he uses nothing more than high-fat European butter and sea salt. "The eggs are incredibly creamy and luxurious and buttery and rich, and great on just a piece of toast," he says. "It's like purity in scrambled egg form."
Here's Korbee's recipe, adapted from Egg Shop: The Cookbook.
YIELD: 1 Serving
2 tbsp. Unsalted butter
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1. Bring about 2 cups of water to a simmer in a small saucepan, then set a medium stainless steel bowl over the pan to function as a double boiler. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the bowl. Keep on low heat.
2. When the butter is fully melted, add the eggs and stir. Keep stirring. Some small curds of cooked eggs will start to develop. Keep stirring. The eggs will appear to be able to stand on themselves, like a quality risotto. Stir just a little more.
3. Remove the bowl from the heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and stir gently until the butter is completely melted.
4. Season with sea salt and pour the eggs on a plate.